Showing posts with label The New York Observer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The New York Observer. Show all posts

Saturday, February 25, 2006

Cin Cin, Cipriani

by Mauro Suttora

The New York Observer, February 25, 2006

 

Want to go to Cipriani?"

"Which one?"

"Downtown."

"Girls too flashy and young with men too old and ugly… I prefer the Cipriani on 59th Street."

"But that’s closed for renovation."

"A real pity."

My American girlfriend Marsha loves Cipriani, as long as it’s uptown. After she comes to pick me up at the Rizzoli bookstore on West 57th Street, she takes the so-called Bergdorf shortcut: enters on 57th Street, and gets out on Fifth Avenue. Sixty seconds, enough to lift her mood before crossing the Avenue to the restaurant.

I fancy everything Cipriani. It makes me proud of being Italian. "Ciprianesque" has become a new word in the American dictionary, meaning a peculiar kind of 21st century "dolce vita" happening at the eight restaurants and gala halls that Arrigo (Harry) Cipriani and his son Giuseppe own in Manhattan.

At 72, Harry is more New Yorker than Venetian. The legendary Harry’s Bar his father opened in Venice just off St. Mark’s square in 1931 - with clients such as Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote, Orson Welles and Peggy Guggenheim - is the only one he keeps in Italy, together with Harry’s Dolci. Cipriani is today a $150 million world empire, with Hong Kong and Sardinia offspring.

But "nemo propheta in patria", no one is a prophet in his own land, and Cipriani senior is more revered in New York than in Venice: this year his city has turned down his mayoral candidacy, drowning in the usual parochial squabbles ("Baruffe chiozzotte", named them playwright Carlo Goldoni). No "doge" Cipriani, then: just emperor of the main industry (food and entertainment) of the main city in the world. Because a big slice of the Big Apple’s night life, twenty years exactly after they arrived in Manhattan, now belongs to them.With Le Cirque and the Plaza gone, more galas are flocking to their locations: the Rainbow Room on top of the Rockefeller Center, Cipriani 42, Dolci at Grand Central Station, the new Cipriani 23 in Madison Square, and Cipriani Wall Street (the former Regent Hotel), where they hold benefit concerts by Rod Stewart, Sheryl Crow or Beyonce with De Grisogono jeweler, and sell residence condos upstairs with the Witkoff Group, which is also their partner in the grandiose project of turning Pier 57 at 15th Street into the largest gala hall in America.

The "Ciprianesque crowd" is made up of glamorous girls and tanned men, simultaneously envied and despised by the old-money New York establishment. But this is not Cipriani’s only contribution to modern world vocabulary: Bellini (the cocktail) and Carpaccio (sliced raw beef), the two staples on their menus, are three-quarters-of-a-century-old.
"Did you copyright them?" I ask Harry Cipriani.

"Why should I?" replies the old libertarian, who hasn’t even bothered to secure the property of the name "Harry’s Bar" - so that the one in Florence pays royalties to the Paris one, and also the one in London has nothing to do with him.

"We are not jealous and have no secrets: we are even selling to the public our Bellini peach juice in cans."
It’s easy to obtain the classic Cipriani recipe: just add one part of prosecco (the sparkling Italian white wine) to three parts of the base juice, plus three ice cubes.

Harry is open to innovation, though, and he himself suggests variations: "Try ‘Sweet Emy’ with gin replacing prosecco and an orange slice, or ‘Sweet Maggie’ as an after-dinner with rum and a mint leaf, or ‘Sweet Annie’ with vodka".

And everybody knows the other Italian operatic "inis" born in the wake of Bellini: Puccini with tangerine instead than peach, and Rossini with strawberry. I even met a "Strawbellini" once...

Whatever the drinks and the food, Cipriani serves them exactly the same way all over the world: his tables are always low, the wooden chairs as uncomfortable as in Venice, and the cutlery smaller than normal. Even glasses are scaled down: "My father wanted them like that, to please the customer, and I didn’t change anything," says Harry, who got a law degree, has written five books and is a karate black belt. He could have practiced a few months ago, when a group of leftist no-globals stormed into Venice’s Harry’s Bar, ate a hefty meal and disappeared without paying, leaving a note: "Charge NATO. No war in Iraq." Cipriani made the news because, in a bout of anger, he declared that his absent-minded waiters would have to pay the bill. After a few minutes he pardoned them.

He is still angry, though, with some restaurant critics: "Come back without a condom on your tongue," he replied to a bad review in the New York Magazine. And to the London Zagat guide, which has accused his London restaurant of being "good only for tea," he retorts: "After your put-down, I am serving 400 meals a day: please go on..."

Please Marsha, leave your Upper East Side fief and come to West Broadway: let’s enjoy life at Cipriani Downtown.

Mauro Suttora is the U.S. bureau chief of Milan's weekly magazine, Oggi and a New York Observer columnist. 

Monday, April 11, 2005

Complete catalogue of Manhattan asses

The New York Observer
Mauro Suttora
April 11, 2005
“Hey, Marsha, read this: The Italian Supreme Court has given 14 months to a guy who bottom-pinched a young woman while she was calling from a phone booth in the Friuli region!”
My Upper East Side girlfriend raises her left eyebrow without smiling: “No wonder …. You come from there, don’t you?”
“Well, it’s a civilized region, no Mafia, hard workers. But this is an incredibly harsh sentence, it’s the first time that some jerks equate ass-touching to violence. It’s a total novelty for us! I guess the impact of this decision will be felt by buttocks all over our sunny peninsula …. "
“Don’t be sarcastic, I bet the pig totally deserved it.”
“Well, it’s a real revolution for Italy. The first one since Benito Mussolini invented fascism after First World War.”
I swear: I never pinch unknowns, nor I get pinched. I dread physical contact of any kind between strangers, unless they are adults, willing, introduced. And protected. That’s how germs travel. But these judges drive me crazy.
“So, Marsha, tell me: How many years of prison should we give rapists, if we are punishing aggressive caressing with more than one year? How much worse is rape than pinching? One hundred times?”
“Yes …. “
“So are Italian judges giving life sentences to rapists? No way. They keep giving 10 or 20 years. There’s no proportion!”
Bottom-pinching has suddenly turned into the least cost-effective way to get pleasure for a man (or a woman) in Italy. Imagine: one year and two months behind bars for just one second of a mere tactile passing satisfaction, involving only the fingertips of one hand.
Of course, we all know there are many different ways of going into it. I ignore the details of the historical and hysterical Friuli ruling, but I hope at least that the judges’ draconian severity was justified by the length of the contact. Or maybe by the use of both hands simultaneously: That would have made a spectacular grip.
I am sure our bon vivant premier Silvio Berlusconi would have been much more lenient with the unlucky pervert. First of all because, like half Italians, should he be forced into groping, he’d certainly prefer other body parts. He would go straight for the breast, the California governor’s way, more than for the back. 
His three television channels have been advocating big tits in the past quarter century, totally subverting the previous 20 years of anorexic fad, and recuperating the healthy tradition established by Sophia Loren and la Lollobrigida in the roaring 50’s.
Notwithstanding his TV brainwashing, our country remains evenly divided between bosom and bottom lovers. Our current main movie star, Monica Bellucci, climbed to fame thanks to a memorable mute scene of her promenading her legendary behind in Giuseppe Tornatore’s movie Malena. No words were needed for her presence on the screen.
Another recent movie which tackled the problem of sexual harassment in contemporary Italy is Under the Tuscan Sun. Diane Lane, starring in it, gets overwhelmed by Italian men as soon as she arrives in Rome. Now, I have to warn American tourists that reality in our streets is much duller. As a matter of fact, although Mrs. Lane would have deserved some punishment for cheating on husband Richard Gere in her previous movie Unfaithful, she gets less action in Trastevere than in Soho.
So, it’s all clichés? I’d say so. The only escape for today’s groper is doing it in an environment so crowded to reduce risks to the minimum. Subways and buses at peak time, for example, deploying what we call mano morta (“wandering hand”), which can always be excused as an involuntary contact. Although being restrained by education or fear doesn’t mean that my countrymen have canceled their centuries-old fetish for the lower back.
Fame, in any case, travels: “But I thought you were Italian … ,” whispered to me once a disappointed American woman (not Marsha, I swear) after we kissed standing, without my gentleman’s hands touching her where she was hoping. “You were supposed to sweep me away!” Go tell those Italian judges, lady. They are becoming so P.C. they might be American.
Italian philosopher Massimo Fini, in his Erotic Di(ction)ary, has listed more than a dozen different types of bottoms. According to him, “we can detect someone’s personality just by looking at his/her gluteus.”
But he goes more deeply than that. He turns anthropological: “Men, as we all know, are divided in two categories: the ones who love the breast (bosomen) and the ones who prefer the ass (bottomen). The first ones generally belong to coarse cultures, not so shrewd, childishly pragmatic, primitive, matriarchal, strongly tied to the woman-mother image and in any case too young for having had the time to develop adequate speculative skills. Bosomen are, for example, the Americans. Europe, the cradle of civilization, is on the contrary bottoman. Venus, the goddess of love and beauty, was surnamed ‘Callipygian’ from the Greek kallopygos (kallos, beautiful + pyge, buttock), and was born together with philosophy and mathematics. For a reason: because the ass is in the first place a metaphysical category. It possesses the geometrical perfection of abstract figures. Its form is similar to the sphere, which is the perfect geometrical concept. But it surpasses it, because it has something that the sphere lacks: symmetry. Like the sphere, it’s an object at the same time finite and infinite. And, because it is curved, the ass is very near to the essence of the truth (‘Every truth is curved,’ said Friedrich Nietzsche).”
This precious Massimo Fini’s book was written in 2000: well before the manifesto of the Bush-era intelligentsia, Of Paradise and Power, the neocon Bible in which Robert Kagan confirms that Europeans are from Venus and Americans from some other unfortunate cold, reddish and ass-less planet.
Mr. Fini goes on explaining: “Encapsulated in the ass, there lies the enigma of the relationship finite/infinite, space/time, which after all is the enigma of the whole universe. It’s no coincidence that Salvador Dali, when asked how he imagined the universe, replied: ‘As a four buttocks continuum.’ How this worrying apothegm, so charged with symbolic meanings, was dropped to the end of men’s back and, even worse, women’s, is a mystery. But here comes again the great ambiguity of the ass: being not human for the perfection of its proportions, it is at the same time very human. Because perfection is inherently blank, inexpressive, while the bottom is the body’s most eloquent part. The ass signals not only somebody’s character, but also his/her belonging to a particular class of people.”
So, with the help of my friend Massimo Fini, I have been trying to come up with a Manhattan ass map. We have, first of all, the typical Upper East Side ass, which I know all too well (it’s Marsha’s): cautious and stingy, with narrow apples, like usually in Italy the Tuscans have. 
The East Village behind on the contrary is trustworthy and hopeful: round, fat and with slightly open buttocks. The midtown is an aggressive one: firm and massive like a mountain range. Around Murray Hill, Beekman Place and Tudor City you find the volitive ass, small and muscular: And it doesn’t belong only to U.N. functionaries, diplomats and their spouses.
The Upper West Side is of course the conversational ass: elastic and malleable. Carnegie Hill can boast the noble one: high, long and with a small relief. Working-class asses (low and large) are unfortunately rare in Manhattan, but a few survive in the Lower East Side. The City Hall behind is unavoidably bureaucratic: fat and shapeless. 
Around Washington Heights the proletarian ass is large and high, while in Park Avenue you sometimes get the military one: narrow and muscular. Wall Street offers petty and fearful asses, which are skinny without being bony; from Hell’s Kitchen up to Columbus Circle and Lincoln Center you get the indifferent ass, small and curled up; the Village’s ass is usually laughing (large and flat); but the West Village one comes rather naughty: round, with a step and quivering. 
And in the end we have the submissive ass, which I couldn’t find any particular geographical liaison to. It’s the one which shows two tender folds between the buttocks and the thighs, and is round without being excessive. This is the real ass. The ass of asses. Because it possesses at the maximum level the two main features which are typical of each and every ass: defenselessness and ridicule (“The cheerful impotence of the bum,” described it Jean-Paul Sartre, another philosopher in the field).
Yes, the ass is helpless, because it can’t see: It can only be seen. It is harmless because it doesn’t have corners. It is defenseless because it doesn’t have brawn: Anybody can outrage it. It is naked and exposed because it’s hairless. And above all it is funny, like all things big but clumsily coward, maintains Massimo Fini, the maximum ass expert on our planet (neocons are from Mars).
Due to this marriage of powerlessness and foolishness, our behinds are the body part most relished by sadists. Nothing gets beaten up as much as the ass. Or at least pinched. But we have to say that it almost always does things to deserve it. It provokes: “Sometimes it shows up with an air of false innocence, some other time with impertinence, often times with arrogance, and a few times it even isolates itself, it doesn’t let on, pretending to ignore being an ass,” complains Massimo (whom at this point we can nickname ‘”My-ass-imo”).
All these attitudes draw an adequate punishment. Which the ass, after a first token resistance, seems to accept eagerly, as it bends, protrudes, opens, offers itself. Let’s confess: The ass is deeply, intimately masochist.
But the real reason behind the Italian behind-pinching penchant is that in the ass we find the ultimate element attracting the sadist: perfection. It is perfection which triggers the desire for profanation. Only things perfect merit to get damaged, violated, reviled (“A**hole!”) in order to downgrade them into imperfect ones. This is, also, the utmost demonstration of the enormous superiority of the ass on the breast. Breasts get caressed, fondled, pampered; at the worst you kindly nibble a nipple. Only a pervert would pinch them less than gently. But this is just to console them for their insignificance, for their being only breasts. While in the perfection of the ass lies a devilish pride which has to be brought down. 
The ass has become so omnipotent that in the U.S. it is nowadays widely and wildly used as a comprehensive synonym for pleasure: It stands for words such as sex, action, excitement, girls, boys, fun, quick love, cheap romance. “Let’s grab some ass tonight” is the most common single sentence used in contemporary American campuses. I learned this while reading I Am Charlotte Simmons by Tom Wolfe, the one and only novel I understand President George Bush junior has been enjoying recently.
So we can jail all ass-grabbers of the world as much as we want, and give them disproportionate penalties, but we’ll never be able to kill the will to touch down there. The maximum we can achieve is to inhibit it: for our behinds are too precious and glamorous not to be pinched, after all.
Mauro Suttora